The complete guide to caring for a broody hen
If you’ve recently visited your coop only to be greeted by a grumpy puffed-up broody hen who refuses to leave the nest box, pecks at your hand or unleashes an otherworldly battle cry when you attempt to reach for eggs – fear not!
Broodiness is one of the most powerful natural instincts a chicken has, but when a hen broods on unfertilised eggs (or no eggs at all) it can present a challenge. Let’s look at why this happens and how you can support her health and well-being through this phase.
If you’re new to keeping hens, our Hen Health pages are packed with practical advice to help you care for your flock.
For now, let’s look at why hens become broody and how you can support their health and well-being through this phase.
Why do hens get broody?
At its core, broodiness is driven by maternal hormones. When spring or summer arrives, the combination of longer days, warmer temperatures, and a buildup of eggs in a nest triggers a surge of prolactin, which is the hormone responsible for the maternal instinct in birds.
Your hen’s internal clock tells her it is time to bring some chicks into the world. In nature, with a cockerel amongst the flock, she would sit on a clutch of fertilised eggs for 21 days until they hatch. However, it’s important to know that hens don’t need a rooster around to become broody – the hormonal trigger functions the same way whether her eggs are fertilised or not. She could be sitting on shop-bought eggs, golf balls, or absolutely nothing at all!
Can ex-commercial hens become broody?
Yes. Although it is less common because of the way commercial laying hens have been bred and managed, ex-commercial hens can still become broody. If your adopted hen suddenly refuses to leave the nest box and displays the typical signs of broodiness, she should be cared for in exactly the same way as any other broody hen.
The physical toll of broodiness
There’s a reason we coined the term “mother hen”; chickens are deeply maternal creatures and very protective of their young, so while it’s a beautifully natural process, broodiness can put an enormous strain on a hen’s body. While broody, a hen’s focus is on nothing else but incubating her eggs, which means putting her own needs aside and potentially impacting her health.
During the incubation period – roughly three weeks – a broody hen will only leave the nest once or twice a day for a few brief minutes. This extreme dedication means she will eat and drink up to 80% less than she normally does, causing weight loss and a complete halt to her regular egg production. She will even go so far as to pluck her own breast feathers out to create a bare skin patch, allowing her body heat to transfer directly to the eggs. Because she isn’t moving, grooming, or eating and drinking well, she becomes vulnerable to external parasites like mites and lice, as well as general malnutrition.
How to care for a broody hen
If you’ve decided to let her ride out the hormonal wave naturally rather than trying to “break” her broodiness immediately, you need to monitor her closely to ensure she stays safe and healthy.
Keep her fed and hydrated:
Alison Leggett, our resident Rehoming, Education & Welfare Consultant, says your first priority should be making sure she eats, drinks and moves.
“As well as placing food near to the nest, gently lift her off once or twice a day and take her a little way from the coop, where she can eat, drink, stretch her legs and relieve herself before making her way back.”
In warm weather, also check that the hen house is well ventilated and not becoming too hot. A broody hen sitting tight in a warm nest box can lose condition quickly, so hydration and airflow are especially important.
For more advice, read our guide to caring for chickens in hot weather.
Keep her moving:
Along with bringing her food, you will need to manually evict her from the coop for a few minutes of fresh air every day. Gently lift her out of the nest box and place her outside in the run. She will likely puff up, complain loudly, and attempt to run right back inside, but forcing her to walk, stretch her legs, and relieve herself is vital for her digestive health.
“Don’t be alarmed if she produces one enormous, very smelly dropping while she’s out,” says Alison. “Broody hens often hold everything in while sitting tight, so this humungous poo is actually an important part of keeping her healthy.”
Bok tip: if she’s pecking at you, wear garden gloves when handling her to protect your hands.
Keep your hen’s nest clean:
Whenever your broody bird is on a break, take the opportunity to freshen up her nest box and keep it free from pests, which are more likely to appear when a chicken is stationary for an extended period. Check her nest frequently for broken eggs or damp bedding, remove any waste, and dust the box with poultry-safe diatomaceous earth to deter mites and lice.
If you are concerned about parasites, our ultimate guide to red mite provides more information on signs to watch for and how to protect your flock.
Collect eggs regularly:
You should collect any eggs from your coop as frequently as possible. Your egg-sitting hen will of course kick up a fuss, so if you need to, don’t be afraid to shut her out of the nest box completely while you do this.
Other members of the flock will often try to lay their fresh eggs right under their brooding friends, which is why it’s best to remove their eggs too. Otherwise, there’s a good chance you’ll find your maternal hen atop a massive hoard! If you’re finding too many eggs or your broody hen’s acting out toward her flock mates, it may be in everyone’s best interest to isolate her in her own private nesting area (often called a “broody coop”).
When should you break broodiness
Broodiness begins before the incubation period and will continue even after a hen’s chicks have hatched. The cycle tends to last around 21 days, but it’s not unusual for it to last longer, even up to six weeks, especially if she’s hopefully nurturing a clutch of unfertilised or dummy eggs.
If your broody hen passes the 21-day mark and shows no signs of quitting, it’s time to “break” the cycle for her own wellbeing.
Take her off the nest:
To deter a broody hen, first try removing her from the nest box. As mentioned above, she won’t want to do this and will likely sprint straight back to her nest as soon as her feet touch the ground. Keep removing her each time and if she persists, block off the entrance and her access entirely.
Give her a cuddle:
More than simply a way of providing comfort, a hug with your hen can be the healthy distraction she needs, giving her time away from the nest box which will disrupt her nesting routine and potentially free her from her broody state. And if she’s fond of cuddles, the closeness with you should help keep her calm and relatively relaxed.
Alison says:
“If she is pecking or growling, don’t panic. She is protecting her nest, not being “naughty”. Wear gardening gloves and long sleeves if needed, lift her gently and confidently, and give her a few minutes away from the nest.”
Cool her down:
Lowering a broody hen’s core body temperature will signal to her internal system that the nesting environment has gone and trigger a hormonal response to end her broodiness. When you remove her from the nest box, people often recommend placing a handful of ice cubes in there to cool her down and make the nest uncomfortable to sit on. But there are better ways.
“A gentler way to cool the nest is to place a wrapped freezer block beneath or in the nesting area, using an old tea towel so she is never sitting directly on the frozen surface,” says Alison. “You can swap it for a fresh one as it warms up. The aim is simply to make the nest less warm and inviting, not to chill or distress her.”
Alternatively, move her to a well-ventilated wire-bottomed cage (such as a dog crate) that’s elevated off the ground. It should be roomy enough for her to move around in and contain food and water, but absolutely no bedding. If successful, she should snap out of her broodiness after three days, but this timeframe can vary for every hen.
You’ll know she’s no longer broody when she stops puffing her feathers and hurrying to her nest. She’ll appear much calmer and should appear to be back to her old self.
Should you let a broody hen sit on fertile eggs?
One of the most common responses from hen keepers is to give a broody hen a clutch of fertile eggs to sit on. This can indeed be an effective method but is not one to be used lightly. You should only get fertile eggs if you intend to keep the chicks or already have an alternative home lined up for them to go to once they’re hatched. Remember, each fertile egg has roughly a 50/50 chance of hatching into a cockerel. Before allowing any eggs to hatch, you need a clear, responsible plan for every chick, and that includes the boys.
If you’re unsure whether hatching chicks is the right decision, read our article explaining why you should think twice about hatching chicks
Frequently asked questions
How long does a broody hen stay broody?
Most hens remain broody for around 21 days, although some can continue for four to six weeks if the behaviour is not interrupted.
Will a broody hen stop laying eggs?
Yes. Most broody hens stop laying while they are sitting on the nest and will not start again until the broodiness has passed.
Is broodiness harmful?
Broodiness itself is not harmful, but eating and drinking less, losing weight and sitting still for long periods can affect a hen’s health if she is not monitored carefully.
Can I leave a broody hen alone?
It is best to check on her every day to make sure she is eating, drinking, staying clean and maintaining a healthy weight.
When should I contact a vet?
If your hen appears unwell, becomes very weak, has difficulty standing, shows signs of injury or illness, or you are concerned about her condition, contact a poultry vet. If you need help finding one, visit our hen-friendly vet directory.
By understanding why broodiness happens and supporting your hen with good nutrition, clean housing and regular health checks, you can help her stay healthy until her hormones return to normal.
If you need further advice, contact the BHWT Hen Helpline, where our experienced team will be happy to help.
